Ron Abuelo Centuria Rum

Centuria was made to celebrate a century — Varela Hermanos' hundredth anniversary in 2008 — and it draws on rums as old as thirty years from the family's reserve. Ron Abuelo is made at Hacienda San Isidro in Pesé, Panama, where Don José Varela Blanco built the first sugar mill in the newly independent Republic in 1908; the family still grows and mills its own cane, distilling on column stills and aging in used bourbon white oak in the tropical heat. Centuria is a solera blend of the distillery's oldest reserves — rums aged twelve to thirty years — married and bottled at 40% ABV in a heavy crystal decanter with a wooden presentation box, the flagship of the house. The Lone Caner calls it the almost-impossible-to-get top of the Abuelo stable. Expect the Abuelo house style at its deepest: a nose of dried fig, prune, dark chocolate, walnut, tobacco, and toasted oak with the honey and banana that mark the 12, opening into a rich, rounded, layered palate of caramel, dried fruit, cocoa, and baking spice with more sweetness and oak than the 12 and a long, warm finish. Honest note: Rum Ratings' drinkers find it sweeter than the Two Oaks — this is a soft, dessert-leaning, Spanish-style luxury rum rather than a dry cask-strength bottle, and priced as a centenary flagship. For a cigar, a slow neat pour in a snifter, a gift, or the collector's shelf. A hundred years of Varela, in a decanter.

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